I think it also helps to think of the woolen spun as grippier (as in grips more) since all the fibres are not tamed into a smooth yarn but are sort of sticking out all over. (using carded fibers). In the videos below, I'm using hand carded alpaca. Hairs are aligned to be parallel, instead of being rolled up to perpendicular to the direction of the yarn. What is Worsted Wool? Any amount of twist, be it a lot or a little, is essential for creating knittable yarn. If you can use Ravelry, the project pages are very helpful. In side-by-side comparison of worsted and woolen yarns with the same fiber and yarn structure, the worsted yarn is more durable, less warm, and heavier than a woolen yarn. Typically worsted spun yarns will have fewer yards per pound verses woolen. September 2019 Please allow a few minutes for this process to complete. Chances are, from the end of your batt the fibres are being fed in to the yarn along the direction of the yarn, and not at 90 degrees. Since it doesn't have air, it does not tend to be "fuzzy". From that basis it's pretty much impossible to create a woolen yarn, which relies on trapping hairs perpendicular to the direction of the yarn Ill be referring back to it next time Im looking for yarn for a specific project. December 2022 This Targhee-Columbia wool blend comes from Wyoming sheep, and the fiber is fleece-dyed (dyed before spinning), which is made visible in Shelters thirty-two heathered colorways, especially the darker ones with lighter hues intermixed. > >, Knitting on an Airplane and Other Travel Tips for Makers, Why You Shouldn't Buy a Knitter Yarn as a Gift, Reasons to Take Your WIP to a Sporting Event, A Free Bracelet Beading Pattern for Valentines Day. 2.22 yds UK Sherry 100% Spun Silk Fabric Luxury Suiting 9 oz Apricot 80" BTP . The most important thing when choosing a yarn substitute is to pick a new yarn that is approximately the same thickness, or weight, as the recommended yarn. December 2019 Theres also Wuthering Heights Tom Hardy, just saying. July 2015 Content: 100% pure new wool Put-Up: 119yd [110 m]/134 oz [50 g] Construction: 3-ply Care: Handwash in cool water Recommended Gauge: 20 sts and 28 rows = 4 (10 cm) on size 6 (4 mm) needles, Woolen-spun yarn creates little air pockets in the fiber; I like to think the process is similar to backcombing ones hair, offers Blacker Yarnss Sonja Bargielowska. May 2022 The worsted yarn spinner uses wool fibres which have been combed and are of a certain length, that is, about 2 inches or more. Thanks for clearing up my confusion over what I scored at the thrift shop today and helping provide some direction on what project might be right for it. Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than woolen. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. January 2023 Maybe you have moral or ethical concerns about the recommended yarn company, or maybe you just dont like the recommended yarn, or maybe youve got another yarn you really like that youd rather use instead. Brilliant exposition, Katie! Scouring,the process in which fleece is cleaned, removes dirt and excess lanolin from the raw wool. The problem is that theyre not as durable as multi-ply yarn. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you. You cracked the egg for me.I want to read more of your writing. As an example, aran weight worsted spun wool is going to be heavier than aran weight woolen spun wool, so there will be fewer yards per 100 grams of the worsted spun wool . Great article! I just started stranded colorwork and this with your swatches is a good resource. Thank you for an excellent and informative article, Jill! By clicking Accept, you consent to the use of ALL the cookies. Thanks! When prepared in a worsted-style, the fibers also tend to spin up more tightly, resulting in greater tensile strength and resistance to abrasion. Customer accounts enabled in your Store Admin. Using the ruler, measure how many times the yarn wraps around the item in the span of one inch. December 2021 Woolen yarns are good for products like tweeds, while worsted yarns are best for smooth fine gaberdines. In the pictures, the woollen spun samples all seem bigger that the worsted spun. The twisted singles are then plied together on the twisting frame Arbor is comprised of three plies, while Vale is comprised of two. October 2018 Understanding helps tremendously and the side by side swatches were terrific. The Vs of stockinette are sharp, the bumps of moss are plump and clear and the holes in the lace are wide open. This can get a bit tricky if youre substituting because you have a fiber allergy. Thank you, thank you, thank you. At the roping stage, the fibers are of irregular lengths, jumbled and nestled together in every which way. A quick aside to address the words we use here. So at my LYS how can I tell from the label on the yarn? September 2018 Thanks. Instead of carding the fibres they're combed. Fabrics created with worsted spun yarns, on the other hand, will generally have better drape, smoothness, and stitch definition. I feel I finally understand the difference. Are they going in parallel or perpendicular? If you can only achieve one, though, choose accurate stitch gauge. Youve just figured out your yarns WPI. This means that they'll have very clear stitch definition, as opposed to woollen spun yarns which have a softer stitch definition. Getting a yarn thats labeled with the same weight as the previous yarn is only part of the challenge, though. Note: We will specifically explain the commercial woolen- and worsted-spinning methods employed by the mills we work with. April 2021 Thats especially true if youre knitting a small, close-fitting garment like a sock or mitt. Very well spot on! Many commercial yarns are spun with the worsted style. eCommerce Website by Virtually Everything, Country / Region*Select a country / regionAfghanistanland IslandsAlbaniaAlgeriaAmerican SamoaAndorraAngolaAnguillaAntarcticaAntigua and BarbudaArgentinaArmeniaArubaAustraliaAustriaAzerbaijanBahamasBahrainBangladeshBarbadosBelarusBelauBelgiumBelizeBeninBermudaBhutanBoliviaBonaire, Saint Eustatius and SabaBosnia and HerzegovinaBotswanaBouvet IslandBrazilBritish Indian Ocean TerritoryBruneiBulgariaBurkina FasoBurundiCambodiaCameroonCanadaCape VerdeCayman IslandsCentral African RepublicChadChileChinaChristmas IslandCocos (Keeling) IslandsColombiaComorosCongo (Brazzaville)Congo (Kinshasa)Cook IslandsCosta RicaCroatiaCubaCuraaoCyprusCzech RepublicDenmarkDjiboutiDominicaDominican RepublicEcuadorEgyptEl SalvadorEquatorial GuineaEritreaEstoniaEswatiniEthiopiaFalkland IslandsFaroe IslandsFijiFinlandFranceFrench GuianaFrench PolynesiaFrench Southern TerritoriesGabonGambiaGeorgiaGermanyGhanaGibraltarGreeceGreenlandGrenadaGuadeloupeGuamGuatemalaGuernseyGuineaGuinea-BissauGuyanaHaitiHeard Island and McDonald IslandsHondurasHong KongHungaryIcelandIndiaIndonesiaIranIraqIrelandIsle of ManIsraelItalyIvory CoastJamaicaJapanJerseyJordanKazakhstanKenyaKiribatiKuwaitKyrgyzstanLaosLatviaLebanonLesothoLiberiaLibyaLiechtensteinLithuaniaLuxembourgMacaoMadagascarMalawiMalaysiaMaldivesMaliMaltaMarshall IslandsMartiniqueMauritaniaMauritiusMayotteMexicoMicronesiaMoldovaMonacoMongoliaMontenegroMontserratMoroccoMozambiqueMyanmarNamibiaNauruNepalNetherlandsNew CaledoniaNew ZealandNicaraguaNigerNigeriaNiueNorfolk IslandNorth KoreaNorth MacedoniaNorthern Mariana IslandsNorwayOmanPakistanPalestinian TerritoryPanamaPapua New GuineaParaguayPeruPhilippinesPitcairnPolandPortugalPuerto RicoQatarReunionRomaniaRussiaRwandaSo Tom and PrncipeSaint BarthlemySaint HelenaSaint Kitts and NevisSaint LuciaSaint Martin (Dutch part)Saint Martin (French part)Saint Pierre and MiquelonSaint Vincent and the GrenadinesSamoaSan MarinoSaudi ArabiaSenegalSerbiaSeychellesSierra LeoneSingaporeSlovakiaSloveniaSolomon IslandsSomaliaSouth AfricaSouth Georgia/Sandwich IslandsSouth KoreaSouth SudanSpainSri LankaSudanSurinameSvalbard and Jan MayenSwedenSwitzerlandSyriaTaiwanTajikistanTanzaniaThailandTimor-LesteTogoTokelauTongaTrinidad and TobagoTunisiaTurkeyTurkmenistanTurks and Caicos IslandsTuvaluUgandaUkraineUnited Arab EmiratesUnited Kingdom (UK)United States (US)United States (US) Minor Outlying IslandsUruguayUzbekistanVanuatuVaticanVenezuelaVietnamVirgin Islands (British)Virgin Islands (US)Wallis and FutunaWestern SaharaYemenZambiaZimbabweUpdate country / region, State* The difference between worsted-spun and woolen-spun yarns lies in how the fiber is handled before the actual spinning. Its important to know WPI because there is room for variation within each of the yarn weight categories. Your explanation of the 2 ends of the spectrum also makes it very easy to understand our process and resulting yarns. PHONE: Toll Free 1-800-483-8749 Worsted wools are better at keeping out the wind and rain, but woolen wools are warmer, because they are full of air which acts as insulation. November 2017 January 2016 It's then spun with the twist entering the drafting zone in a long draw technique. But if the pattern calls for yarn from an indie dyer or one of the smaller manufacturers, it can be pretty hit or miss (I just checked for several of my favorites that I've used in designs this year, and nothing). The twist brings air with it, and the surface isnt controlled by smoothing as it hits the fiber. October 2013 December 2017 The primary reason for this is that the wool yarn normally used for these fabrics was produced using a special "worsted" spinning technique that better aligns the fibers. August 2013 They are also warmer because of the airiness. Instead of carding the fibres they're combed. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. Your email address will not be published. Thank you for your thoughtful and careful drafting, and especially the photos! Combed worsted yarn is superior to carded woolen yarn in strength. November 2021 They are also stronger, more durable, and less prone to pilling. March 2021 Think in terms of shopping at a fiber show. Combed top can be used to make yarns for items that are still going to be warm, like a hat, it just will not have the insulating ability of a yarn spun woolen, but will be stronger than a woolen spun yarn. Jillian Moreno spins, knits and weaves just so she can touch all of the fibers. Thank you!!! I have just started spinning using a Navajo type spindle and I was unsure that I was l on the right lines. Raw, dirty & weedy alpaca is what I'm practicing this woolen technique I am learning, from rolags. Native Twist is available in twenty-nine bold, earthy, and jewel-toned solid colorways. June 2016 Because the yarn is smoother than woolen yarn, it will be less itchy when worn next to the skin, provided the fibers are not too coarse for comfort. All of my Maine-spun yarns unlike typical worsted-spun yarns are low-twist, very soft, a little fuzzy, and apt to pill to some degree. If your gauge is too loose (that is, fewer stitches per inch than it should have), try going down a needle size. Woolen-spun fibers, on the other hand, are not straightened; the individual fibers lie in all directions, creating a yarn with lots of air pockets. Our BWC Wisconsin Woolen Spun yarns are two-ply in both the fingering and worsted weight and are available in 100 gram skeins. Worsted-spun yarns, on the other hand, are smoother and knit up into fabrics with greater drape and stitch definition. Yarn tends to come in hanks, balls, skeins, cakes, and cones. WPI stands for wraps per inch. This is so helpful and interesting not to mention how easy to understand. Great article and most helpful. This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. Check out our worsted spun wool selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. These cookies track visitors across websites and collect information to provide customized ads. Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. In the production of Quarry, which was inspired by unspun yarns, we skip the process of spinning the individual plies of yarn and instead nestle together three strands of roping drawn out to the right thickness, before gently twisting those strands together in a mock twist. Worsted spun is smooth, while woolen spun is a little more rustic. This carded wool from the initial fiber preparation is prepared further in a worsted-style through combing. Woolen spun yarns are in the production of sweaters, carpets, tweeds. Worsted is about both how you spin and how you (or your supplier) prep. The pattern called for an expensive, fingering-weight, linen yarn. In stockinette its *really* obvious. Worsted Weight: 250 Yards / 100 Grams. This will save me a lot of headache as well as trial and error. NOW I KNOW. So, and this is without seeing your yarn, your drafting, or the fibre, it's probably a lofty semi-worsted yarn. I did not know this was the difference in certain types of yarn. Its easier to just add more rows than to recalculate the width of a garment. It could be youve got a set yarn budget and the designer used an expensive yarn that would blow your budget wide open. And I really appreciate the swatches. To produce our heathered colors, the scoured fleece is then dyed in a range of intensely saturated base solids, which are then blended together during the spinning process using percentages of the base colors unique to each colorway. This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. Worsted yarns are smooth and dense, they tend to drape well and be much more lustrous. The Clun Forest yarn is lofty and warm, hand-dyed in variegated and solid colorways, and also offered in undyed white. August 2016 *Membership cannot be purchased with Gift Cards. April 2014 The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional". I hope you enjoy your next project. Some have a naturally rougher surface. September 2015 They will drape differently, hold shape differently, feel differently to the hand, and interact differently with the light. Thank you for this insightful article. Keep up with her exploits at jillianmoreno.com. lovely wool yarn selection from Jagger Spun. Worsted Yarn. It seems that I am and have produced a woollen yarn. Miss Babs has an orderly line. October 2019 January 2014 Here, we take a closer look at some of the industrys top woolen-spun yarns. www.harrisville.com, Content: 100% pure wool Put-Up: 215 yd [196 m]/4 oz [113 g] Construction: 2-ply Care: Handwash with mild soap in lukewarm water Recommended Gauge: 17 sts = 4 (10cm) on size 8 (5 mm) needles, Our mill has been in production on the same location for 158 years, so we do have some history in producing woolen-spun yarn, says John Little of Briggs & Little Woolen Mills. US 6 - 8 or 4 - 5mm. Take a look at the picture in this section. I think Ill need to read it over a few times to really get it, because there is so much information. Carding, and the rolling in to a rolag creates a spiral of wool fibres wrapping round the tube. Compared with worsted yarns with the same specifications, worsted core-spun yarns have the following advantages: 1. Finally I understand I sorta knew but didnt quite fit it into certain yarns I was knitting on, I always wondered . One other point about worsted vs. semi-worsted. Absolutely excellent article and the illustrations are superb and helpful. The project aims to restore the hydropower installation to produce clean energy from the waterway that runs under the mill. Understand that some designers are buried in messages. You'll also want to identify whether the suggested yarn in the pattern is woolen spun or worsted spun. Prepare to fiddle with needle sizes and maybe make a math adjustment or two if your chosen yarn doesnt quite match the gauge in the pattern. January 2021 August 2017 The semi-woolen swatch weighed 4.5 g versus 4.3 g for the woolen-spun - not a huge difference in a swatch of this size. Because of the density, a typical worsted yarn is thinner than a typical woolen yarn of the same ypp. February 2016 Our Barrett Wool Co. Wisconsin Woolen Spun Yarns are about as close to homespun as we can get. April 2017 Congratulations on shedding light on these two styles of spinning that are so confusing for many spinners. Woolen yarns are the equivalent of cotton carded yarns, and worsted yarns are the wool equivalent of combed cotton yarns, they get the extra process to make them higher quality. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics". September 2020 Great article! The bloom also means that woolen-spun yarns can be generously forgiving and able to balance out tension or stitch irregularity in knitting. You won't want to put . This blooming also has the effect of softening and blending the appearance of your stitches rather like moss growing on a forest floor, in the words of Clara Parkes. Copyright2023Golden Peak Media. During the Middle Ages, common agricultural practices were in flux because new breeds of sheep were being . I'm glad to hear you found it useful. The best article ever on this subject. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. February 2022 At Brooklyn Tweed, we employtwo basic spinning methods that occupy either end of this broad spectrum of possibility: woolen-spinning and worsted-spinning. October 2020 www.imperialyarn.com. Thank you Jagger Spun for the information! This is extra work youre asking them to undertake, and knitting patterns are already underpriced. Semi worsted will give you more fluff to . Can you spot the other difference? August 2021 You can see the stitches in the worsted swatches just show up. This is the type of information that makes a knitter more knowledgable about our purchases. Most people whove knit the hat have substituted yarns, but if they didnt use one with a halo like the silk-mohair, they sometimes found that the resulting fabric was too loose. 5 sts / inch on size US 7. An extreme example is angora or mohair. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. July 2017 However, though the staple length of the wool is short the yarn is strong over the length of a single knit or purl stitch, so the fabric worked in these yarns will be cohesive and strong. Now I know. Nature Spun Worsted is 100% US grown wool and it is spun and dyed in Mitchell, NE. Ive used it on a lot of projects since then. The best ways to get in touch with me are by messaging me on Ravelry or by sending an email to abeeinthebonnet (at) gmail (dot) com. They are also stronger, more durable, and less prone to pilling. Use top to spin semi worsted. Woolen yarns feel lighter, can feel textured and have a halo, and if the fibers like to be hairy or fuzzy, they will be flying their fuzzy freak flag. So well illustrated and explained. This page is a godsend . The main difference between spun yarn and filament yarn is that spun yarn is made from fibres with short discrete lengths and involve materials like cotton and wool while filament yarn is made from long, continuous filaments and involve materials like silk.. Yarn is a continuous strand of twisted natural or synthetic fibres. You can see the difference when its wound into a ball, and in the strand. Well, the differences between woolens and worsted begin at the carding stage. October 2014 Thanks. The terms roping and sliver are often used interchangeably. It does however produce a lot of waste fibres (though those can still be carded for a more textured yarn). Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. They also tend to have less memory. Thank you so much Katie. On Ravelry, you can go to the (Ravelry link) Projects tab on the pattern page to see other versions of the hat knit by other people. This bulky weight blend of 80% acrylic and 20% wool offers the triple crown yarn benefits: it's machine washable and dryable, has the warmth and comfort of wool, and works up quickly. Want a refresher on the difference between worsted-spun and woolen spun yarns? This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. Dogs Ah, you're right, thank you! So how do you spin yarn to be either worsted or woolen? And I also now understand my past failures a little better haha! Going to send people to this. Thank you, youre a great explainer. Just asking because s-on-s yarns produce a particular asymmetric shape when knitted. That turning gives the yarn some stability. They are: Woolen and Worsted. That means theyre good for colorwork and lace projects where you really want your stitches to pop. As with our woolen-spun yarns, fiber prepared for worsted-spun yarn is first scoured and then carded. This was a grat posting. Worsted yarns contrast with woollen yarns, which are carded rather than combed and fuzzier than worsted yarns. I dont believe a label gives this info. Appreciate the info. Wool is warm and lightweight and takes dyes well. They are also warmer because of the airiness. March 2016 Note: Notice how the individual plies of Arbor and Vale (shown above, top to bottom) appear more compacted and how the fibers in each single are oriented in the same direction. Copyright 2014-2023. Worsted yarn is best used in outerwear, hats and mittens. Woollen spun woven fabrics are thicker and heavier and used mostly for outerwear. Beautiful fibre you'll love to work with. One of the most basic attributes of a yarn is woolen or worsted spun. Extremely helpful! October 2021 (Theres a method to this madness, we promise!). This means, how many individual strands were used to form the thread. Thank you for a well written and useful article. . The yarn isn't smoothed, it's simply stretched out like a piece of chewing gum, that traps lots of air in the yarn, and makes it very bouncey and elastic. These cookies do not store any personal information. This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. FO's Dye baths are created using a precise calibration of dye, temperature, and water flow to protect the lofty, softness of the wool and to ensure the colors are repeatable with every new dye lot. July 2016 The weight makes it great for outerwear, and the texture and structure allow for beautiful felted work. June 2014 Everyone already said what I wanted to, so Ill just add that Tom Hardy is my Happy Place, no matter how hes spun. I made a sweater that is just too heavy and was hoping to be able to make it in a lighter weight yarn. Required fields are marked *. The difference between Woolen Spun and Worsted Spun. and now the skies are clear, the the clouds have drifted away, and the sun is shining! I won't give you all the details, but before finishing there was already a significant difference in diameter; the worsted (dark) measured as 17 WPI, while the woolen (light) measured as 12 WPI. A great big AHA! Moment for me! The difference in these two yarns are mainly due to two factors; (1) the nature or class of wool used; and (2) the method of preparing and spinning the fibres into yarn. If you want knife-edge stitch definition, go for a worsted drafted yarn. Lets use the Profiterole Hat for an example again. Learn how your comment data is processed. You are the Rachel Maddow of yarn, delving in at a granular level, exploring every detail, and explaining it all with an engaging writing style drenched in clarity. Before beginning the process of spinning our woolen-spun yarns, the fiber is first cleaned and then dyed in the fleece. Ill jump right in with the big one. The Merino and Corriedale wool is gathered from Midwestern farms right here in the United States.
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